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Diego Roversi reshared this.



Jeans, step one


Posted on February 19, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, FreeSoftWear
CW for body size change mentions

A woman wearing a pair of tight jeans.

Just like the corset, I also needed a new pair of jeans.

Back when my body size changed drastically of course my jeans no longer fit. While I was waiting for my size to stabilize I kept wearing them with a somewhat tight belt, but it was ugly and somewhat uncomfortable.

When I had stopped changing a lot I tried to buy new ones in the same model, and found out that I was too thin for the menswear jeans of that shop. I could have gone back to wearing women’s jeans, but I didn’t want to have to deal with the crappy fabric and short pockets, so I basically spent a few years wearing mostly skirts, and oversized jeans when I really needed trousers.

Meanwhile, I had drafted a jeans pattern for my SO, which we had planned to make in technical fabric, but ended up being made in a cotton-wool mystery mix for winter and in linen-cotton for summer, and the technical fabric version was no longer needed (yay for natural fibres!)

It was clear what the solution to my jeans problems would have been, I just had to stop getting distracted by other projects and draft a new pattern using a womanswear block instead of a menswear one.

Which, in January 2024 I finally did, and I believe it took a bit less time than the previous one, even if it had all of the same fiddly pieces.

I already had a cut of the same cotton-linen I had used for my SO, except in black, and used it to make the pair this post is about.

The parametric pattern is of course online, as #FreeSoftWear, at the usual place. This time it was faster, since I didn’t have to write step-by-step instructions, as they are exactly the same as the other pattern.

Same as above, from the back, with the crotch seam pulling a bit. A faint decoration can be seen on the pockets, with the line art version of the logo seen on this blog.

Making also went smoothly, and the result was fitting. Very fitting. A big too fitting, and the standard bum adjustment of the back was just enough for what apparently still qualifies as a big bum, so I adjusted the pattern to be able to add a custom amount of ease in a few places.

But at least I had a pair of jeans-shaped trousers that fit!

Except, at 200 g/m² I can’t say that fabric is the proper weight for a pair of trousers, and I may have looked around online1 for some denim, and, well, it’s 2024, so my no-fabric-buy 2023 has not been broken, right?

Let us just say that there may be other jeans-related posts in the near future.


  1. I had already asked years ago for denim at my local fabric shops, but they don’t have the proper, sturdy, type I was looking for.↩︎

https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/02/19-jeans_step_one/index.html

reshared this



I haven't finished my Augusta stays yet.

The Cassandra Stays pattern has been released.

https://thedreamstress.com/2024/02/meet-the-cassandra-stays/

what is going to happen?

#sewing #HistoricalSewing

reshared this



TFW it's the last day of carnival, and as you get dressed with your perfectly normal dress to go outside for mundane reasons you worry that people may ask you what you're dressed as

(which is not a big problem, as long as they don't decide that I'm dressed as something and so I'm fair game for being covered in nasty plastic foam from a can)

#sewingPeopleProblems

in reply to Uriel Fanelli

@Uriel Fanelli @LaVi 🕊️📚🐈 più che altro il burlesque tende ad essere una versione eroticizzata degli anni 50, che non necessariamente coincide con lo stile con chi indossa abbigliamento vintage nella vita di tutti i giorni
Unknown parent

Uriel Fanelli

e' un po' quello che ho detto io, posso concordare che il vestito della von teese fosse eccessivo, ma mi infastidisce pensare che qualsiasi donna si vestisse cosi' "stava in un bordell"o. In realta' le scollature abbondanti esistevano anche all'epoca, e anche le contadine si vestivano e svestivano a seconda della praticita'. le mondine si coprivano testa , petto e spalle dalle zanzare, ma non avevano problemi a scoprire le gambe ,cosa che avrebbe dato scandalo dieci anni dopo.

Il punto e' che non esisteva una regola cosi' rigida come la dici tu.

Chiaramente nelle province cattoliche sottosviluppate erano coperte da collo a piedi, quindi magari sono certo che se mi parli di Chivasso, Rho, come della maremma, Di Rovigo o dell'agrigentino, hai ragione.

Ma non esisteva solo quella situazione.

Della frase che hai detto mi infastisice solo "una cosi' la vedevi solo nei bordelli"

Oppure alla Scala a Milano.

Questa voce è stata modificata (2 mesi fa)


Avviso contenuto: dream, earworm

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Avviso contenuto: sogno, canzone che rimane in testa

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Avviso contenuto: sogno, canzone che rimane in testa

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Elena ``of Valhalla'' "LAA LA LAAA LALALA'.... ODINO! LAA LA LAAA LALALA' VALHALLA!"

...mo' chi me lo toglie dalla testa?

(corretto per una maggiore aderenza al materiale originale... gh.)

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Avviso contenuto: dream, earworm



And with the jeans almost¹ done, I've cut a vest out of the leftovers, using a block² from a victorian manual (that I want to check for fit), but to be made with no regard for historical accuracy.

I've also cut three (3) small pockets, to test their positions and size, but I'm not going to do welt pockets on jeans, I'm also going for a simpler method for those.

¹ one pair fully done and worn yesterday for the whole day with success, the other pair is still missing some handsewing and the belt loops
² https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.html#vest

#sewing

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Avendo quasi¹ finito i jeans, ho tagliato un gilet dalla stoffa rimanente, usando un modello base² da un manuale dell'ottocento (del quale voglio controllare le misure), ma realizzato senza la minima attenzione all'accuratezza storica.

Ho anche tagliato tre (3) taschini, per provare le posizioni e dimensioni, ma mi rifiuto di fare una tasca profilata sul jeans, userò un metodo più semplice.

¹ un paio completato ed indossato ieri tutto il giorno con successo, all'altro paio mancano ancora delle rifiniture a mano e i passanti.
² https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.html#vest

#cucito

Unknown parent

Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Kermode velcro. is. evil.

I don't think that there is really a way to make sewing it non-painful (but maybe somebody else knows one?)



After years of sewing together this morning my sewing machine told me her name!

It happened while she was going through too-many-to-count layers of denim while hemming over a flat felled seam.

I supposed I should respect her privacy and avoid telling which name it is to everybody on the internet.

#sewing #sewingPeopleThings

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

sei sicura che fosse il suo nome e un neanche troppo velato insulto? 😁
in reply to Vi 💙

@Vi 💙 no, no, era un nome, non funziona come insulto

di solito quando mi vuole insultare si rompono gli aghi, e questa volta non è successo (per ora, non ho ancora finito i jeans :D )



A bit of a #sewing update.

Last weekend I was sewing the Augusta Stays, but I knew that while watching fosdem videos I could get to a point where I needed to do a fit test, which is not really compatible with fosdem, so I got ready for it by cutting a new top for myself in cotton voile, like the one at https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.html but with a bit more fullness and an attempt to give a ruffle look to the neckline and cuffs.

I started sewing on Sunday afternoon, and during the week it has progressed nicely, I've now reached the approximately 10 km seams around the neck (then there will be 5 km of seams around the cuffs, and it's done, I have already hemmed the bottom.

However, this meant that I procrastinated starting the binding on the stays. I hope that next week I'll find the courage to do them.

On the machine-sewing side, instead, I've been working on the jeans, but there were a couple of days when they just weren't working, so I stopped and did something else, and they are still stuck with the front and back assembled, and they need to be sewn together, and then finished with the waistband and hems. Next week, too.

OTOH, on the living room table there is now the last bit of elastic denim leftover with a pattern for a vest on top: it's a block from a victorian book, but I'm going to make it very simple, as a sort of wearable mockup for the pattern block.
https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.html#vest
I'm not going to actually cut it until I've finished the jeans, so that I'm 100% sure I don't need any more pieces for them, because the vest will use most of the usable leftovers.

Oh, and the distractions when stuff wasn't working involved reading the Workwoman's Guide and taking notes for more handsewing stuff for the near future. A hint on what may be had by looking at my openclipart account :) https://openclipart.org/artist/valhalla

Basically, I didn't do what I had planned to do, but it still wasn't that bad of a week.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Un aggiornamento sul #cucito.

Lo scorso weekend stavo cucendo le Augusta Stays, ma sospettavo che guardando i video del fosdem sarei arrivata ad un punto in cui serviva una prova, che non è molto compatibile col weekend del fosdem, per cui mi sono portata avanti tagliando una nuova camicetta in voile di cotone, tipo https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/contemporary_unisex/tops/low_waste_elastic_neck_top/index.html ma con volant su collo e polsi.

Ho iniziato a cucirlo domenica pomeriggio e nel corso della settimana è andato avanti, adesso sono al punto in cui devo fare circa 10 km di cuciture sul collo e poi circa 5 km sui polsini, e a quel punto è finito (ho già fatto l'orlo sul fondo).

La cosa però ha comportato il procrastinare il rifinire gli orli delle stays, spero settimana prossima di trovare il coraggio.

Quanto al cucito a macchina, stavo lavorando sui jeans, ma ci sono stati un paio di giorni in cui le cose non funzionavano, per cui mi son fermata e ho fatto altro, e sono ancora fermi al punto in cui i davanti e i dietro sono assemblati, ma vanno cuciti assieme, e poi mancano cinturini e rifiniture tipo orli. Settimana prossima.

D'altra parte, sul tavolo della sala c'è l'ultimo pezzo di jeans elasticizzato con sopra un cartamodello per un gilet: è un modello preso da un libro vittoriano, ma ho intenzione di realizzarlo in modo molto semplice, come mockup indossabilke per il cartamodello.
https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.html#vest
Prima di tagliarlo però voglio aver finito i jeans ed essere 100% sicura di non aver bisogno di altri pezzi, perché con il gilé userei la maggior parte dei ritagli di dimensioni significative.

Oh, e tra le distrazioni di quando le cose non funzionavano c'è stato leggere la Workwoman's Guide e prendere appunti per altre cose da cucire a mano nel prossimo futuro. Un indizio su cosa potrebbe essere sul mio account openclipart :) https://openclipart.org/artist/valhalla

Fondamentalmente, non ho fatto quello che mi ero ripromessa di fare, ma tutto sommato non è stata una cattiva settimana.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

The top is finished!

(don't mind the fichu-like scarf which may or may not be there to cover the thermal underwear I was wearing under the top)

And I've also had @Diego Roversi take pictures of most of the jeans, so that in the next couple of weeks or so I can hopefully finish and publish the blog posts for them.

As for binding the stays. we don't talk about binding the stays :D

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

La camicetta è finita.


(ignorate la sciarpa che potrebbe essere stata infilata a coprire la maglietta termica che stavo indossando sotto alla camicetta)

@Diego Roversi si è anche prestato per fare foto alla maggior parte dei jeans, per cui nelle prossime settimane spero di riuscire a finire e pubblicare i post relativi sul blog.

Quanto agli orli delle stays, quali orli delle stays?

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

two tabs of the stays have been half bound (i.e. I've sewn the tape from the front, not yet from the back).

tooManyToCount remaining

#sewing #AugustaStays

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

due cosi¹ delle stays sono stati mezzi-ricoperti (ovvero ho cucito la fettuccia sul davanti, non ancora sul retro).

ne mancano… TroppiPerEssereContati

¹ termine preciso di sartoria storica, eh :D

#cucito #cucitoAMano

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

all of the bottom edge of the stays have been half bound.

I hope that sewing the tape from the back will be less fiddly than doing the first seam on the front (I hope), and then there is the top edge, which is significantly longer, but also much easier (I hope)

#sewing #AugustaStays

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Tutto l'orlo inferiore delle stays è stato rinifito a metà.

Spero che cucire la fettuccia sul retro sia meno incasinato della prima cucitura sul davanti (spero), e poi c'è l'orlo superiore, che è decisamente più lungo, ma dovrebbe essere anche più facile (spero).

#cucito



I've just realized it is indeed the passengers' fault if the trains are late.

You see, a few days ago @Diego Roversi forgot his book home, and the train was quite late. Evidently the train is late when at least one of the passengers does so.

So, if every passenger took care to bring their own book to read while on the train, the trains wouldn't be late anymore!

#badLogicIsFunnierThanGoodLogic

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Mi sono appena resa conto che è effettivamente colpa dei passeggeri se i treni sono in ritardo.

Qualche giorno fa @Diego Roversi si è dimenticato il libro a casa, e il treno era in discreto ritardo. Evidentemente il treno è in ritardo quando almeno uno dei passeggeri lo fa.

Quindi, se tutti i passeggeri facessero attenzione e si portassero un libro da leggere quando sono sul treno, i treni non sarebbero più in ritardo!

#erroriDiLogicaMaSonPiùDivertentiDellaLogica #trenò

reshared this



The #jeans saga continues.

Yesterday I started to cut the other denim I have bought, the one that is a bit heavier (385 g/m² instead of 355 g/m²) but also has some elastane in it (everything else is cotton, that part was not negotiable), and I decided to cut pieces for two pair of jeans rather than just one, with the two waistband variants (straight, where I add elastic to the sides and back, and shaped).

And now I can work almost assembly-line style on them, and see how long it takes me to finish two pairs.

And then my jeans situation should be fine, and I shouldn't need to make jeans for myself for some time.

#sewing

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Kermode (and since I'm running magic lantern on the camera I've just checked, but I don't think that it has a module to add syncthing support, even if I had a camera with wifi hardware)

(I could play arkanoid on it, however :D )

Unknown parent

Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Kermode yeah, my smartphone is a pinephone, it's camera situation is, let's say, suboptimal :D

OTOH, it can run git annex (which is what I use on the pc and elsewhere to sync pictures and other files)



One silver lining of remoting #fosdem is that it's much easier to deal with an unwieldy productive fidget device (such as, I don't know, sewing a pair of stays that already has bones in it) when changing rooms only involves an mpv command instead of running between buildings in the rain, wind, snow, sun (all at the same time) :D
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

una cosa che consola del fatto che si sta partecipando a fosdem da remoto è che è molto più facile gestire un coso fidgettoso per concentrarsi produttivo scomodo da gestire (chessò, a puro esempio cucire un corsetto del 1700 in cui sono già state infilate le stecche) quando cambiare stanza vuol dire un comando di mpv anziché correre tra gli edifici sotto la pioggia, vento, neve, sole (tutti assieme) :D

reshared this





@Diego Roversi has just said that he prefers my diet-mode festive bread (a baguette dough with no fats) with raisins and candied citrus peels to the panettone with sugar glaze he was gifted at $DAY_JOB.

And I mean, it is good enough, but wow

#baking #bread

Food & Drink Feed reshared this.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Diego Roversi also, I'm absolutely not singing “Lucifer's Raisins” on the tune of the obvious Candlemass song every time I steal one of the burnt raisins from the top of the bread.
in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Diego Roversi ah, e comunque non sto assolutamente canticchiando “Lucifer's Raisins” sull'ovvia canzone dei Candlemass tutte le volte che rubo un'uvetta bruciata da sopra il pane.

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

btw, the reason why I'm making this is that tomorrow it's Saint Blaise's day, and there is a tradition in this area to eat panettone that has been kept over from Christmas on that day.

My bread has been made fresh (it wouldn't have kept for over a month), but the candied citruses are leftovers from the same bread I made at Christmas, so that counts, right?

(oh, and we didn't start eating the one for tomorrow, there was a bit of extra dough and I accidentally made another smaller loaf :D)

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

il motivo per cui sto facendo questa cosa è che domani è san Biagio, e da queste parti c'è una tradizione di mangiare quel giorno una parte del panettone di natale che è stata messa da parte.

Il pane è stato fatto fresco (non si sarebbe conservato per più di un mese), ma i canditi sono avanzi dallo stesso pane che ho fatto a Natale, quindi conta, giusto?

(ah, e non abbiamo aperto quello di domani, è che c'era un po di impasto in più e mi è capitato accidentalmente di farne uno aggiuntivo :D)

Unknown parent

Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Kermode @Diego Roversi right, I was thinking Candlemass the band, not Candlemass the day, which I should have done, yesterday :D

the song is called Lucifer Rising, but with raisins it's funnier




Macrame Bookbag


Posted on January 31, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:macrame
a macrame bag in ~3 mm ecru yarn, with very irregular knots of different types, holding a book with a blue cover. The bottom part has a rigid single layer triangle and a fringe.

In late 2022 I prepared a batch of drawstring backpacks in cotton as reusable wrappers for Christmas gifts; however I didn’t know what cord to use, didn’t want to use paracord, and couldn’t find anything that looked right in the local shops.

With Christmas getting dangerously closer, I visited a craft materials website for unrelated reasons, found out that they sold macrame cords, and panic-bought a few types in the hope that at least one would work for the backpacks.

I got lucky, and my first choice fitted just fine, and I was able to finish the backpacks in time for the holidays.

And then I had a box full of macrame cords in various sizes and types that weren’t the best match for the drawstring in a backpack, and no real use for them.

I don’t think I had ever done macrame, but I have made friendship bracelets in primary school, and a few Friendship Bracelets, But For Real Men So We Call Them Survival Bracelets(TM) more recently, so I didn’t bother reading instructions or tutorials online, I just grabbed the Ashley Book of Knots to refresh myself on the knots used, and decided to make myself a small bag for an A6 book.

I choose one of the thin, ~3 mm cords, Tre Sfere Macramé Barbante, of which there was plenty, so that I could stumble around with no real plan.

A loop of four cords, with a handle made of square knots that keeps it together.

I started by looping 5 m of cord, making iirc 2 rounds of a loop about the right size to go around the book with a bit of ease, then used the ends as filler cords for a handle, wrapped them around the loop and worked square knots all over them to make a handle.

Then I cut the rest of the cord into 40 pieces, each 4 m long, because I had no idea how much I was going to need (spoiler: I successfully got it wrong :D )

I joined the cords to the handle with lark head knots, 20 per side, and then I started knotting without a plan or anything, alternating between hitches and square knots, sometimes close together and sometimes leaving some free cord between them.

And apparently I also completely forgot to take in-progress pictures.

I kept working on this for a few months, knotting a row or two now and then, until the bag was long enough for the book, then I closed the bottom by taking one cord from the front and the corresponding on the back, knotting them together (I don’t remember how) and finally I made a rigid triangle of tight square knots with all of the cords, progressively leaving out a cord from each side, and cutting it in a fringe.

I then measured the remaining cords, and saw that the shortest ones were about a meter long, but the longest ones were up to 3 meters, I could have cut them much shorter at the beginning (and maybe added a couple more cords). The leftovers will be used, in some way.

And then I postponed taking pictures of the finished object for a few months.

The same bag, empty and showing how the sides aren't straight.

Now the result is functional, but I have to admit it is somewhat ugly: not as much for the lack of a pattern (that I think came out quite fine) but because of how irregular the knots are; I’m not confident that the next time I will be happy with their regularity, either, but I hope I will improve, and that’s one important thing.

And the other important thing is: I enjoyed making this, even if I kept interrupting the work, and I think that there may be some other macrame in my future.


https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/01/31-macrame_bookbag/index.html

Unknown parent

Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Kermode The trick is that I'm often doing repetitive things with my hand while I'm doing something else that requires concentration :) productive fidgeting :)

(also, I'm blogging stuff that I've done months ago and had not blogged yet)

Unknown parent

Elena ``of Valhalla''

@Kermode right now he's the guy very close to me under the flannel sheets :D (I know, I know, we don't have real cold around here, but it still feels cold to us :) ).

he's also quite handy, but tends a bit more towards repairing things rather than making new ones (not exclusively, however), but our house *is* full of things that we have done something to.



Right now, I'm really glad that I have a set of leather thimbles in various sizes that I've made to give away to people who want to start sewing by hand because

a) my middle finger is hurting too much to wear my metal one
b) the sewing on my leather thimble has just self-destroyed
c) I need a thimble to be able to re-sew a leather thimble

#sewing #sewingPersonProblems

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

In questo momento sono *molto* felice di avere dei ditali di pelle in varie misure che ho fatto da regalare a chi vuole iniziare a cucire a mano, perché

a) il mio medio fa male e non riesco ad usare il mio solito ditale di metallo
b) le cuciture del mio ditale di pelle si sono appena autodistrutte
c) ho bisogno di un ditale per riuscire a ricucire un ditale di pelle

#cucito #problemiDiChiCuce

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Se devi cucire cose molto spesse e consistenti potrebbe essere utile un ditale palmare, come quelli usati per le vele e le espadrillas.
in reply to rag. Gustavino Bevilacqua

@Gustavino Bevilacqua UTC+01:00 no, per quanto sia robusto anche il corsetto del 1700 rientra più nel lavoro di precisione che non nel “cose spesse e consistenti”, serve controllare l'ago con le dita
Unknown parent

Elena ``of Valhalla''
@Kermode yeah, you don't *really* need a thimble to handsew, but it makes a *huge* difference in how confortable it is!


I was measuring ingredients for a dough in a bowl, using the tare button of the scale after each ingredient. Then I removed the bowl, and the number on the scale was 404.

which is extremely appropriate for a bowl that is missing.

#baking

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Stavo misurando gli ingredienti di un impasto in una ciotola, usando il bottone per la tara dopo ciascun ingrediente. Poi ho tolto la ciotola dalla bilancia, e segnava esattamente 404.

che mi pare *estremamente* appropriato per una ciotola che non c'è.

reshared this



a post about algorithms and their lack of on ao3 (but I think that some points also apply to the fediverse)


Here I am one again #fighting against #appstreamcli validate

given this (image urls are not important here)

[...]
    <screenshots>
        <screenshot>
            <image type="source" xml:lang="en">https://[...].png</image>
        </screenshot>
        <screenshot type="default">
            <image type="source" xml:lang="en">https://[...].png</image>
        </screenshot>
    </screenshots>
[...]

appstreamcli validate complains
E: [...]: screenshot-image-source-missing
   A screenshot must have at least one image of type `source`.

... ok?

this works:

[...]
    <image type="source">https://[...].png</image>
[...]

but them flathub validation will complains that a lang attribute is required.

So here I am once again commenting out ninja test from PKGBUILD

End note:

$ appstreamcli --version
AppStream version: 1.0.1
in reply to Fabio

Oh, also:

https://puri.sm/posts/specify-form-factors-in-your-librem-5-apps/

E: [...]: custom-key-duplicated Purism::form_factor
   A key can only be used once.


Filed under: perspectives.

“It's just a pair of jeans, it's a relatively quick sew, once I have a fitted pattern I can easily make a pair in one week¹”

(this is half a subtoot and half a sub-phone-call-with-my-father)

¹ I can only sew a short time each day, maybe an hour or two

#sewing

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

IMHO jeans take longer to make because of all the topstitching - if you care about it looking good.

And if you find that the fabric behaves differently to the one you've nailed the fit with - and care about that. 😄

in reply to Lil Meow Meow

@Lil Meow Meow well, most of the clothing I make tend to use either french or flat felled seams, and having to topstitch is already faster than flat felling by hand :D I'm not bothering with contrasting thread, however, and that already helps :)

as for the fabric, I was thinking more in the general direction of “I have made and used a regular pair of jeans, and then I can reuse the pattern every time I need new jeans”, more than the stage after the mockup and before the first pair :D



Confy 0.7.1


Version 0.7.1 of #Confy, the #gtk4 / #libadwaita conference companion, has been tagged.

This release brings small fixes.
Main highlights are:

  • New German translation.
  • Flatpak now will use GNOME Runtime 45

#Arch #AUR packages are updated, #flatpak on #Flathub should be on its way.

https://sr.ht/~fabrixxm/Confy/

Diego Roversi reshared this.



Today I have watched a few videos¹ about traditional Karelian dress; I don't think that the (autogenerated, i assume) subtitles have *ever* managed to get that word right.

However, one time it was subtitled as Carribean, and now I have these visions of people dressed like the pirates of the Carribeans on the lakes between Finland and Russia, and I can't unsee them.

¹ the first one in the series is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GECRnLSbXgI

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Oggi ho guardato dei video¹ sul costume tradizionale della Carelia, e non credo che i sottotitoli (suppongo autogenerati) siano *mai* riusciti ad azzeccare quella parola.

Una volta Karelian è stato sottotitolato come Carribean, e adesso ho delle immagini mentali di gente vestita come i pirati dei Caraibi sui laghi tra Finlanda e Russia, e queste immagini non usciranno più dalla mia mente.

¹ il primo della serie è https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GECRnLSbXgI


in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Uhm… pare che la testa galleggi sopra le spalle alla Magritte, o è solo una mia impressione?


First short trek after months. With snow! Not bad!

https://kirgroup.net/~fabrixxm/trek/2024-01-21_orimento/



Aaaaaaand I've done all of the boning channels on the #AugustaStays I started in (checks for the old post) November 2022! And one spool of thread was enough! (I have another, luckily, as I plan to use the same thread for other seams, but for those I would also have had alternatives)

And since I took the picture I've also finished the eyelets on one of the center back pieces, and added boning to both of those and to the side fronts (but the sun has set, so there will be no more pictures until tomorow).

Now I only need to finish the rest of the eyelets, and most importantly to sew the whole thing :D

Maybe in January 2025 it will be done :D If I don't get distracted.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

all eyelets have been done

the small panels have also been boned, I still have to do the big front ones (and I've used about half of the boning called for by the pattern).

#sewing #AugustaStays

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

tutti gli occhielli sono stati rifiniti.

i pannelli piccoli hanno anche le stecche, ma mi mancano ancora i pannelli grandi del davanti (e sono più o meno a metà delle stecche necessarie secondo il cartamodello).

#cucito #cucitoStorico

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

all panels boned, first fitting done, and now I'm turning the sewing allowances and I've started to attach two of the pieces.

The instructions still have *a lot* of pages.

#sewing #AugustaStays

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

stecche inserite su tutti i pannelli, prima prova fatta, e adesso sto rifinendo i margini di cucitura e ho iniziato ad attaccare due pannelli.

Le istruzioni hanno ancora un *bel po'* di pagine.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

all panels have been joined together!

hopefully this afternoon I'll attach the shoulder straps

and then I have to decide whether I want to add seam tapes or not.

#sewing #AugustaStays

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

tutti i pannelli sono stati attaccati tra di loro!

se tutto va bene oggi pomeriggio spero di attaccare le spalline

e poi devo decidere se mettere le fettucce sulle cuciture o se saltarle.

#cucito

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

I've decided, no seam tapes.

I couldn't find narrow tapes other than white herringbone ones, and I don't care about the way the look, and the instructions say that it's mostly decoration, so...

I'm currently sewing seam tapes :D

because just after I had decided, I saw the 20 m roll of light blue tape I've bought for the binding, and thought that if I fold it in half it can work as seam tape, too.

#sewing #AugustaStays

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

ho deciso, niente fettucce sulle cuciture.

Non riesco a trovare fettuccia sottile se non quella spigata bianca, il cui aspetto non mi dice molto, e le istruzioni dicono che è soprattutto decorativa, per cui...

Sto cucendo della fettuccia sulle cuciture :D

perché immediatamente dopo aver preso la decisione ho visto la confezione da 20 metri di fettuccia azzurra che ho preso per rifinire i bordi, e mi son resa conto che piegandola a metà può funzionare anche sulle cuciture.

#cucito #cucitoAMano



A thought-provoking article about the common aspects of censorship through history and today

varve reshared this.



suddenly, I no longer received new posts from the rss feeds I follow.

it was DNS.

(I think it has been (re)solved)

(I'll see myself out)

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Adding two speaker is very easy and provide a all-in-one boombox without thinking to add external ones.

But, yes, if you want you can also add a big external acoustic box....



We need obviously two speaker, two plastic box and also a grid for protect speakers from accidental damage.


Do you remember this project? https://social.gl-como.it/display/3e3ce0df-1364-ba5d-e582-0a0037482860

Well, I'm thinking to Transform the old project into a modern multimedial boombox.ì by adding two lateral speaker.



valhalla> …dopo che ieri ho portato su *chili* di marmellata
@Diego Roversi > non credo che fossero *chili*
valhalla> no. aspetta, controllo
valhalla> 330, 340, 340. uno virgola zero uno chili! si può usare il plurale!
diego> va beeene

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

This happened in Italian, but for people who are following me because they want to learn Italian here's a translation :D

valhalla> …and yesterday I've brought home *kilograms* of jam
@diegor@social.gl-como.it> I don't think it was *kilograms*
valhalla> they weren't. wait! let me check.
valhalla> 330, 340, 340. there! one point zero one kilograms! plural is fine!
diego> oooook



/me, has a work confcall today
/me, yesterday evening “I should really ask @Diego Roversi to make me a new jack - jack cable that I need to hear audio from this computer, because the one I'm using is on its last leg, but it's late, I'll do it tomorrow evening”.

guess what I had to do this morning? :D

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

/me, ha una confcall al lavoro oggi
/me, ieri sera “dovrei chiedere a @Diego Roversi di farmi un nuovo cavo jack - jack per sentire audio su questo computer, perché quello che ho sta tirando le cuoia, ma è tardi, glielo chiederò domani sera“

indovinate un po' cosa ho dovuto farestamattina? :D



New little toy project in #vala #gtk4 / #libadwaita : Oliver, a simple GUI for PHPStan.

Select a folder, it runs phpstan found in vendor/bin subfolder, shows (searchable) results, monitors reported file for modification to automatically analyze project while coding.

It's called Oliver because, you know... Stan... Oliver...

Code here:
https://git.sr.ht/~fabrixxm/oliver

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Mini Books


Posted on January 13, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:bookbinding
Two coptic bound small books, seen from the top with the pages somewhat open. One has purple and orange triangles on the cover, the other one waves in two shades of greenish blue.

In 2022 I read a post on the fediverse by somebody who mentioned that they had bought on a whim a cute tiny book years ago, and that it had been a companion through hard times. Right now I can’t find the post, but it was pretty aaaaawwww.

Two coptic bound small books, seen from the front. One of the covers is covered in grey paper, the other one is cardboard that has been spray-painted copper.

At the same time, I had discovered Coptic binding, and I wanted to do some exercise to let my hands learn it, but apparently there is a limit to the number of notebooks and sketchbooks a person needs (I’m not 100% sure I actually believe this, but I’ve heard it is a thing).

A coptic bound small book, seen from the front. The cover is made of white cernit, with thin lines painted in gold acrylic to form a sort of B shape.

So I decided to start making minibooks with the intent to give them away: I settled (mostly) on the A8 size, and used a combination of found materials, leftovers from bigger projects and things I had in the Stash. As for paper, I’ve used a variety of the ones I have that are at the very least good enough for non-problematic fountain pen inks.

Two coptic bound small books, seen from the front. The covers are covered in grey paper with a piece of light blue lace on top.

Thanks to the small size, and the way coptic binding works, I’ve been able to play around with the covers, experimenting with different styles beyond the classic bookbinding cloth / paper covered cardboard, including adding lace, covering food box cardboard with gesso and decorating it with acrylic paints, embossing designs by gluing together two layers of cardboard, one of which has holes, making covers completely out of cernit, etc. Some of these I will probably also use in future full-scale projects, but it’s nice to find out what works and what doesn’t on a small scale.

Two coptic bound small books, seen from the front. The covers are covered in grey paper, and they are half-covered by a piece of off-white tulle, cut on a diagonal. One of the two books has a cat eye embossed and painted in gold.

Now, after a year of sporadically making these I have to say that the making went quite well: I enjoyed the making and the creativity in making different covers. The giving away was a bit more problematic, as I didn’t really have a lot of chances to do so, so I believe I still have most of them. In 2024 I’ll try to look for more opportunities (and if you live nearby and want one — or a few — feel free to ask!)


https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/01/13-mini_books/index.html

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@Luca Sironi @lorenzo :misskey: :xmpp: faccio un quote toot per non intasare il thread di là

https://sironi.tk/objects/ec185d38-5251-4d5d-90d7-c38a9fd5029e

il problema del self-hosting individualista è che richiede soldi, conoscenze e/o tempo, ed esclude tutti quelli che non li hanno.

Non sono quantità di soldi enormi, non sono conoscenze che richiedono studio di una vita per essere raggiunte, ma se non le si ha si deve avere più tempo da dedicare (e non avere altro, magari di altrettanto importante, che si vorrebbe fare in quel tempo).

Il community hosting non risolve tutti i problemi, probabilmente qualcuno non viene raggiunto comunque, ma almeno allarga il range dei potenziali avvantaggiati da “i soliti nerd” a “i soliti nerd e tutti quelli che conoscono un nerd o che conoscono qualcuno che conosce un nerd”, ed è un aumento significativo¹

¹ anche considerata la propensione alla socialità tipica del nerd medio, grazie al secondo passaggio :D

reshared this

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Sembrava un argomento interessante ma quando ho letto la parola "creatore" mi si è accopponata la pelle e mi è passato l'entusiasmo... :flan_despair:
Unknown parent

Luca Sironi
@gemlog
You lost me a little bit. If that help, for context, @valhalla was quoting, in italian, a conversation being held in italian.


Filed under: stop procrastinating (on one specific task) challenge 2024.

yesterday I've drafted a suitable womanswear trousers block. I've printed it out, so that I can start making a quick mockup before converting it into a jeans pattern¹ with all of the fiddly bits.

this morning I'm supposed to start doing that mockup.

and here I am, writing stuff on the fediverse.

I'm not starting very well, right?

¹ something like https://sewing-patterns.trueelena.org/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.html , except for people with more *bustle* than belly :D

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

Le cose che mancavano erano un bottone e i passanti per la cintura, quindi stamattina ho deciso di finirli al volo. Ho deciso di mettere un automatico anziché il bottone tradizionale da jeans con l'occhiello, quindi è questione di minuti, giusto?

No. Quindi ho deciso di ascoltare qualcosa mentre lavoravo, il che ha causato la saldatura di emergenza di un nuovo cavo audio, seguito da ulteriori imprecazioni contro il bottone e dopo qualcosa come un'ora e mezza finalmente ho un paio di pantaloni dotati di bottone.

I passanti possono aspettare.

in reply to Elena ``of Valhalla''

E le passanti?

https://invidious.projectsegfau.lt/watch?v=vvjhsZYaofk



A Corset or Two


Posted on January 7, 2024
Tags: madeof:atoms, craft:sewing, period:victorian, FreeSoftWear
a black coutil midbust corset, from a 3/4 front view, showing the busk closure, a waist tape and external boning channels made of the same twill tape and placed about 1-2 cm from each other at waist level.

CW for body size change mentions

I needed a corset, badly.

Years ago I had a chance to have my measurements taken by a former professional corset maker and then a lesson in how to draft an underbust corset, and that lead to me learning how nice wearing a well-fitted corset feels.

Later I tried to extend that pattern up for a midbust corset, with success.

And then my body changed suddenly, and I was no longer able to wear either of those, and after a while I started missing them.

Since my body was still changing (if no longer drastically so), and I didn’t want to use expensive materials for something that had a risk of not fitting after too little time, I decided to start by making myself a summer lightweight corset in aida cloth and plastic boning (for which I had already bought materials). It fitted, but not as well as the first two ones, and I’ve worn it quite a bit.

I still wanted back the feeling of wearing a comfy, heavy contraption of coutil and steel, however.

After a lot of procrastination I redrafted a new pattern, scrapped everything, tried again, had my measurements taken by a dressmaker [#dressmaker], put them in the draft, cut a first mock-up in cheap cotton, fixed the position of a seam, did a second mock-up in denim [#jeans] from an old pair of jeans, and then cut into the cheap herringbone coutil I was planning to use.

And that’s when I went to see which one of the busks in my stash would work, and realized that I had used a wrong vertical measurement and the front of the corset was way too long for a midbust corset.

a corset busk basted to a mock-up with scraps of fabric between each stud / loop.

Luckily I also had a few longer busks, I basted one to the denim mock up and tried to wear it for a few hours, to see if it was too long to be comfortable. It was just a bit, on the bottom, which could be easily fixed with the Power Tools1.

Except, the more I looked at it the more doing this felt wrong: what I needed most was a midbust corset, not an overbust one, which is what this was starting to be.

I could have trimmed it down, but I knew that I also wanted this corset to be a wearable mockup for the pattern, to refine it and have it available for more corsets. And I still had more than half of the cheap coutil I was using, so I decided to redo the pattern and cut new panels.

And this is where the “or two” comes in: I’m not going to waste the overbust panels: I had been wanting to learn some techniques to make corsets with a fashion fabric layer, rather than just a single layer of coutil, and this looks like an excellent opportunity for that, together with a piece of purple silk that I know I have in the stash. This will happen later, however, first I’m giving priority to the underbust.

Anyway, a second set of panels was cut, all the seam lines marked with tailor tacks, and I started sewing by inserting the busk.

And then realized that the pre-made boning channel tape I had was too narrow for the 10 mm spiral steel I had plenty of. And that the 25 mm twill tape was also too narrow for a double boning channel. On the other hand, the 18 mm twill tape I had used for the waist tape was good for a single channel, so I decided to put a single bone on each seam, and then add another piece of boning in the middle of each panel.

Since I’m making external channels, making them in self fabric would have probably looked better, but I no longer had enough fabric, because of the cutting mishap, and anyway this is going to be a strictly underwear only corset, so it’s not a big deal.

Once the boning channel situation was taken care of, everything else proceeded quite smoothly and I was able to finish the corset during the Christmas break, enlisting again my SO to take care of the flat steel boning while I cut the spiral steels myself with wire cutters.

The same corset straight from the front: the left side is a few mm longer than the right side

I could have been a bit more precise with the binding, as it doesn’t align precisely at the front edge, but then again, it’s underwear, nobody other than me and everybody who reads this post is going to see it and I was in a hurry to see it finished. I will be more careful with the next one.

The same corset from the back, showing cross lacing with bunny ears at the waist and a lacing gap of about 8 cm.

I also think that I haven’t been careful enough when pressing the seams and applying the tape, and I’ve lost about a cm of width per part, so I’m using a lacing gap that is a bit wider than I planned for, but that may change as the corset gets worn, and is still within tolerance.

Also, on the morning after I had finished the corset I woke up and realized that I had forgotten to add garter tabs at the bottom edge. I don’t know whether I will ever use them, but I wanted the option, so maybe I’ll try to add them later on, especially if I can do it without undoing the binding.

The next step would have been flossing, which I proceeded to postpone until I’ve worn the corset for a while: not because there is any reason for it, but because I still don’t know how I want to do it :)

What was left was finishing and uploading the pattern and instructions, that are now on my sewing pattern websiteas #FreeSoftWear, and finally I could post this on the blog.


  1. i.e. by asking my SO to cut and sand it, because I’m lazy and I hate doing that part :D↩︎

https://blog.trueelena.org/blog/2024/01/08-a_corset_or_two/index.html


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